Silent Sunday

The minefield that is starting school in Portugal

Today our oldest daughter starts her first year at Primary school here in Portugal and what a journey it has been, a quite stressful journey too.

Here in Portugal, children start school in the calendar year they turn six, so as our daughter's birthday is in January, she is one of the oldest or latest to start.  School is obviously mandatory from this age but it is up to the parents to register their child and to be aware of these rules.

One of the things which bugs me about living in Portugal is the lack of information and the difficulty in obtaining needed information, such as about schooling.  We knew via friends who have children already in school that we had to go to the central school in the area to register our daughter and that it had to be done by a certain date.  That was fine.  Then in late July, they put up a list in the same school, telling you where your child has got a place, thats fine.

From then the fun starts, trying to know what you need, when it starts, what needs to be paid for and how and when.  After several trips back and forth to the school over the past few weeks we have pretty much got it sorted, we think!!

First comes the question of when they start, we are told they will start in the week between 10th and 14th and that is all.  What books do we need, here in portugal, you buy the school books and supplies etc every year.  After several weeks and asking, we are told there is a list up at the school, so back we go again.  Still no date on starting though, but we are told we will be informed next week (ie the week before school starts!)

So now we have the books, but no starting date, now, what else is needed?  so off we go to the shopping centre where all the relevant shops are full of textbooks, folders, pens, bags and everything you need.  We stand there looking at the multitude of items, trying to figure out what is needed.  How many workbooks, does she need pens, pencils AND crayons, should she have A4 or A5 books?  I feel like im in a nightmare!  So once again we trek up to school to ask and are told that the local council will be providing the first years with the 'kit' they need, so that problem solved and money saved!! Bonus.

So now we just need to know when we start and how to get all the information about timings, dates, lunches etc.  In the previous years, parents would receive a phone call inviting them to a meeting, usually two days before the meeting is held and the weekday before school actually starts!!  But this year, they put it on the school website, the meeting is on the Friday, before they start the school today.  This is only announced the Monday beforehand.  How working people can sort their life, I have no idea with this lack and lateness of information.

So we go off to the meeting, where we are told about the school hours, where to get her school 'kit' and how to pay for lunches.  So then we rush off to pick up these things needed for the following Monday, stand in queues only to be told we dont need to worry about it until the end of the month and this is not the right place to be anyway!!

So it has been a bit of stressful couple of weeks, trying to get everything sorted and finding all the details, but here we are on the First day of school!!  Thank you to my wonderful husband, who without him, I would have been very lost in this situation.

Silent Sunday

Burning fires at dawn

Source: Melanie Maps/EPA/Lusa 

This week in Tavira, we have had a terrible fire that burned for over three days.  It has been very concerning and caused immesaurable damage, burning a third of the area in the district.  It started on wednesday afternoon, up in the hills of Serra do caldeirao, which stretches across the East Algarve from near the Spanish border to central Algarve near Faro.  At the worst point, the fire was out of control on three fronts, stretching over 40 miles.  With strong winds and reiginitions causing big problems.  

On wednesday night, the sky was a horrible colour, with a sinister grey tint from the clouds of smoke which stretched as far as the eye can see.  The next morning, things had only gotten worse after the strong winds of the night before and we woke to smokey clouds and ash falling like drizzle on both sides.  Now the fire was spreading south and west towards the town of Sao Bras.  They bought in more firefighters and units from the army, with more than 700 hundred men, over 150 vehicles and several planes, they were still unable to get it under control.  People had to be evacuated from their homes.

Finally on saturday afternoon, they managed to dominate the fire and now have it under control.  So what now?  They are investigating the source of the fire as many of the fires this week have been caused by arson. But the cost of the damage to our beautiful area is uncountable and means huge losses for many whose lives depend on the Serra and its land, not to mention the animals lost.  Miles of eucaplytus, olives, vineyards etc, all gone, to take years to regenerate.

And now all the 'officials' can do is blame each other for why it took so long to get under control.  This drives me crazy, this blame policy.  Everyone wants to look like the hero, but there are no heroes in this story and blaming the others is of no use, the damage is done.  Now is the time to start the repairs not to argue.

Where I live - a photo blog

Some photos from the beautiful East Algarve around Tavira.  

Silent Sunday

Tavira Beaches: part 2

At the start of the summer, I set out to visit all the Tavira beaches as part of my Summer mission.

Well I did manage to visit all apart from one, Fabrica as I really didnt want to take the chance of wadding through although mostly shallow water with all my gear and two children.  And not being familiar with that beach, the possibility of later getting stuck trying to come back.  So that will be resigned to an 'adult or older children beach'.  Maybe next year I will get over there.

Otherwise I tried all the others and found a new one as well, Praia da Lota, which is found at the east end of Manta Rota, so basically go to Manta Rota and follow the signs to the east end of the town.  This is a more 'locals' beach, parking is quite small but the beach is not as busy as the others and quite flat and shallow, making it good with children.  There is also a couple of simple beach restaurants.

Ilha Cabanas, accessed by a small boat from the eastern end of Cabanas, parking can be a nightmare in high season and the wait for the boat can be long.  Also being an Island beach can often be rough.  But the beach is long and nice.


Ilha Tavira is a beautiful place, when you get off the boat, you walk a few hundred metres through the island shubbery and could forget where you were.  There are several restaurants and bars and a large campsite, practically on the beach, which must be lovely in summer.  The beach goes for miles and is very deep, if you walk far enough you could be on your own, even in high season.  In high season you can access the Island by large boats from Tavira town centre or Quatro Aguas or private water taxi, which takes about 10 minutes.  I first went here on my 30th birthday and had the best day.  Again being a island beach can be rough.

Praia Barril another island beach, one of my favourites where you take a little train over to the beach area, which the children love.  A very popular and large beach with good facilities but best to be avoided in high season as although there is a lot of parking, it can still be a nightmare, leaving you to walk over a mile to get to the train. Out of season it is perfect and quiet.

Praia Verde on a July morning

Praia Verde is the easterly of all the beaches and is not an island beach.  It is set down a fairly large hill but parking is quite good and there are restaurants at the top and bottom of the hill.  It is quite a shallow beach, making it calmer than the Island beaches.  Its a good one, with the calm waters but the walk back up is hard with a pushchair or young child.

Manta Rota was always my favourite beach but my reason for wanting to try the others was to find something different or better, but I have to say, I didnt.  Manta Rota still remains my favourite, but WHY?
When going to the beach in the Algarve heat with two small children, my aim is to get there as quick as possible with the least amount of fuss and difficulty and Manta Rota is perfect for that.  It is the nearest beach to my house where I can drive to without the hassle of boats, trains or queues.  The water is generally calmer than the Island beaches.  They renovated the area within the last four years, so the access is really good, and it is only a short walk on a boardwalk to get to the beach.  There is only one downside, in the summer they charge parking, but otherwise for me, its perfect.  I tried the others, but for me this is the best!  It does get busy in the summer but with such easy access its not a problem.

So if you're down in the East Algarve, give it a try.

Manta Rota in November, with fishermen on the beach and Monte Gordo in the distance.

My Tavira

I love Tavira, it is a beautiful place.  To me it is the jewel of the Algarve, and in times past I can imagine it was a grand place in the region, strong in the fishing industry and commerce.  Looking at the grand old family houses, now left to ruin I imagine many important and wealthy families once had their homes here.

I came here back in 2003 when we were on holiday in Vilamoura and fell in love with it.  I always wanted to come back but never imagined I would end up living here.  

Terapins in the garden fountain

Colourful fishing boats line the river

The 'beach boat' which takes the 1000s of beach lovers to Ilha da Tavira every summer.

A view of the river, with the cockle pickers in the background.

Praca da Republica (Town Square)

The old Roman bridge

Gates of the Moorish castle

An old Tavirense house

Beautiful gardens

Typical roofs of Tavira

My best birthday ever!

Today is my birthday. I am 33 today, I know still a chicken.  Age is not something that bothers me, I didnt dread 30, nor will I worry about the next decade.

But I would like to share with you my best birthday memory, it was on my 30th.  We had just moved to Portugal just a few weeks before and were living in the hotel my husband was managing.  Firstly I got a present of something I had always wanted, a digital SLR camera.  Then my husband had arranged a surprise day out, we got picked up and taken for a tour of Tavira, then we got a private boat tour along the coast which Sophie loved, it was really nice.  Then we got dropped at one of the Islands, where we had a really long, relaxing lunch, just the three of us!  Later we went back to the hotel where I had a big bunch of flowers and chocolates.

It may not sound like much, but Im not much of one for birthdays, so for me this was a lovely day of treats and relaxation in a lovely place, with my two most favourite people in the World!!

What more could I ask.

Sophie having her first Clams.

What is your favourite birthday memory?

Tavira Beaches

Tavira has some great beaches.  In the area of Tavira are at least six main beaches, some on main coast, some on the Ria Formosa islands. 

The Tavira coast is at the Eastern end of the Ria Formosa Natural Park, which is a series of barrier islands, some of which are inhabited. It is a beautiful area, with fantastic beaches which are flat and spread as far as the eye can see.

From West to East starting with:

Praia Barril - just on the edge of the village of Santa Luzia, near Pedras D'el Rei touristic complex.  It is situated on one of the Islands and can be acccessed by a small train or by walking the mile or so to the beach.  The beach facilities are located in a converted tuna fishing village.    It is quite picturesque beach with the unique addition of a 'anchor graveyard' a throwback from the golden and prosperous age of Tuna fishing.

Ilha Tavira - this is the main beach from Tavira town, huge numbers of people and campers visit this site daily from the town by boat.  There is a large, well-equipped campsite here just a couple of hundred metres from the beach and plenty of bars and restaurants.  The beach is large and stretches for miles, where you can walk from one beach to another along the expanse of the Island.

Ilha Cabanas - another island beach, accessible from Cabanas village by small boat.  This is another popular one but smaller than Ilha Tavira, they have a couple of restaurants and facilities on the beach with concessions.

Fabrica - this is a hidden treasure which I only found last year, quite by accident.  It is not one of the popular ones but is growing in popularity.  I think this was probably a 'locals beach' but now has been discovered. It is situated in a tiny 'village' off a country lane.  But this is a unique beach, it can be accessed by local boat but most people actually just wade across (at the right tide) to the beach.  There are no facilities but it is gorgeous, like something out of the caribbean.  There is a restaurant near the water, where they do great seafood, which again is not very advertised but very busy.

Manta Rota - my personal favourite and most frequented by us.  This is the first beach which can be accessed directly.  Situated in a small resort town with good facilities, it was given a facelift about 4 years ago and is very nice.

Last but not least

Praia Verde - this beach is situated at the bottom of a hill with good access.  Good beach for children with shallow waters and some facilities.  Lovely place to come for dinner as well!  Not overly crowded.

These are the main Tavira beaches, there are other small, local ones and of course, the 'Ria beaches', the beaches found on the banks of the interior of the 'Ria Islands.'